Written By Avila Chidume
Explore the joy and empowerment found in expressing cultural identity through fashion.
Black British Fashion
The phrase ‘Often Imitated, Never Duplicated’ captures the essence of Black British fashion and its global influence. While many may attempt to replicate the style, the originality and authenticity of Black fashion trends remain unparalleled. The unique blend of cultural heritage, innovation, and self-expression within Black UK fashion sets it apart, making it a trendsetter that resonates on an international scale.
From pioneering designers like Walé Adeyemi, to trailblazing models like Naomi Campbell, Black British individuals have played an integral role in shaping the fashion landscape.
The Influence of the Windrush Generation
[1948: Jamaicans on board the Empire Windrush, copyright Illustrated London News Ltd. Mary Evans]
The Windrush generation, on arriving in the UK, brought with them a rich tapestry of new skills, styles and fashions. Seamlessly integrating their cultural heritage into the fabric of British society, enriching the fashion landscape with vibrant and diverse influences. For instance, The Zoot suit was often worn by Caribbean men and consisted of high waisted, wide-legged trousers, worn with a long jacket.
Many aboard the HMT Empire Windrush brought with them the rich tradition of clothes-making, from shoemakers to tailors, each individual brought expertise to their new home. Despite facing racism, they sought to establish a new sense of identity in the UK. Their fashion choices reflected a blend of international influences, showcasing pride and determination.
Alethea McNish, born in Trinidad and moved to the UK in the 50’s was known for her colourful designs which stood out in the post-war period. She often worked with large fashion houses such as Christian Dior.
Today’s Trailblazers
Nigerian-British designers such as Fisayo Longe and Clint Ogbenna, have made significant strides in the fashion industry, establishing successful businesses that have dressed celebrities such as Saweetie and Drake. Their entrepreneurial endeavours not only showcase their talent and creativity but also contribute to shaping contemporary fashion trends and influencing popular culture.
[@ fisayolonge on Instagram] [@ clint419 founder of Corteiz https://www.instagram.com/clint419/?hl=en ]
Their creative expressions blend elements of African and Caribbean heritage with contemporary British aesthetics, offering a fresh perspective that resonates across diverse communities. Through their bold designs, vibrant colours, and innovative approaches, they challenge norms, celebrate diversity, and redefine standards of beauty.
Black British Women’s Influence
Black British women are increasingly influential in shaping global fashion trends, with their impact amplified by social media platforms. Captivating “get ready with me” videos are used to authentically express themselves, showcasing unique styles and perspectives that resonate with diverse audiences worldwide in real-time, underscoring the relevance and power of their influence in today’s fashion landscape.
Women are celebrated for their exceptional fashion sense and the significant impact it exerts on the global stage. This is evident in hashtags such as #UKBlackGirlAesthetic, boasting over 1000 posts dedicated to showcasing the distinctive styles of Black women in the UK, highlighting their unique fashion expressions that set them apart from counterparts in other regions across the globe.
[@ drealdior on tiktok] + [ @ __kubiat__ on Instagram]
Influencers such as celebrity fashion stylist, Melissa Holdbrook-Akposoe of Melissa’s Wardrobe and Nella Rose, are driving trends in the UK through popular “try on hauls,” where they showcase their favourite clothing items and highlight standout shops. These videos often go viral, significantly influencing the fashion landscape and the trends embraced by individuals across the country.
Their influence has garnered immense popularity, leading them to partner with global brands and even launch their own fashion lines. These lines not only reflect their personal style but also serve as a platform to influence trends centred around joy and empowerment. Through their fashion endeavours, they continue to inspire and uplift others, spreading body positivity and confidence throughout the industry.
[Melissa’s Wardrobe on Instagram] + [Pretty Little Thing x Nella Rose Collaboration]
Black British Men’s Influence
A standout figure in contemporary British fashion is Skepta, also known as Joseph Adenuga, renowned as a fashion icon and a regular presence at London Fashion Week. His distinct style has earned him recognition as one of Britain’s best-dressed men.
This year, Skepta expanded his influence with the launch of Mains London, a ready-to-wear line debuting at London Fashion Week. Blending streetwear with sophistication, his collection captivated audiences and critics alike, challenging norms and reflecting the diversity of British culture.
Skepta’s venture into fashion marks a significant milestone, reshaping the landscape of British fashion with his innovative designs and creative vision. As a trailblazer in both music and fashion, Skepta embodies the spirit of self-expression at the core of Black British identity.
[@ skepta on Instagram]
From Windrush to Streetwear
The association between Black men and puffer jackets, as well as designer tracksuits influenced by Grime music, creates a symbiotic relationship where fashion trends inspire and are inspired by cultural movements. Celebrities, alongside the youth who admire them, play a pivotal role in shaping these trends, with their style choices setting the tone for broader fashion landscapes. Music videos serve as influential platforms, promoting particular images that subsequently permeate social settings and communities, reinforcing and amplifying these fashion statements.
The incorporation of sportswear into contemporary youth culture in the UK by Grime artists is increasingly prevalent and robust. From Skepta’s highly anticipated collections with Nike, to Stormzy’s Adidas collaboration, their influence is undeniable and continues to grow stronger with each passing day.
[@ santandavebible Santan Dave’s women’s fashion line] + [@ vintagedollrisa on Instagram]
Discrimination in Fashion
The discussion surrounding professionalism and appropriateness in fashion, particularly in the UK, is complex and often contentious. There are negative associations attached to certain styles, such as streetwear commonly worn by many Black men in London, which can be unfairly linked to antisocial behaviour or the stereotype of ‘roadmen.’
On the other hand, hairstyles like cornrows and other protective styles, prevalent among individuals of African and Caribbean descent, are consistent within the community but not outside of it, often deemed unprofessional.
However, when these styles are adopted by white individuals or fashion designers, they are often perceived as edgy streetwear or high-fashion statements, receiving praise and attention during fashion weeks. This disparity highlights broader issues of cultural appropriation and the double standards that persist within the fashion industry. Another example being Balaclavas- seen negatively on Black individuals but perfect for high fashion brands like Gucci’s runways.
[https://twitter.com/NoContextBrits/status/1590654425672331266] [https://images.app.goo.gl/ioG7oULFqa35HWPJ6]
Celebrities like David Beckham have sparked conversations by incorporating traditionally Black accessories into their fashion choices. For instance, Beckham notably wore a durag during a meeting with the now King of England, and he also styled his hair in cornrows when meeting Nelson Mandela. Growing up in London, Beckham’s fashion influences are deeply rooted in the diverse cultural landscape of the city. However, Beckham has expressed ‘regret’ over his past fashion choices, particularly the cornrows, acknowledging that they may have been perceived as ‘unprofessional’, especially in formal settings. Such rhetoric is “anti-Black” and dangerous to Black people and Black culture as individuals may be victims of discrimination because of their hairstyles in “professional” settings. Beckham’s fashion choices highlight the ongoing dialogue about cultural appropriation and the importance of understanding the cultural significance of certain fashion choices.
Recognising Trailblazers
In September 2023, as London Fashion Week drew to a close, Somerset House unveiled a groundbreaking exhibition titled “The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion.” This exhibition aimed to celebrate the last 50 years of British fashion while shining a spotlight on the often-overlooked successes and influence of Black designers and the evolution of Black British fashion.
Curated by the Black Orientated Legacy Development Agency (BOLD), a dynamic creative and design development agency, the exhibition sought to catalyse structural and institutional change within the fashion industry and beyond. BOLD, conceived by visionaries Andrew Ibi, Harris Elliot, and Jason Jules, is dedicated to championing diversity, equity, and inclusion within the creative sphere.
[https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/the-missing-thread]
Through compelling storytelling and visually arresting displays, “The Missing Thread” offered a platform to showcase the remarkable contributions of Black designers and creatives, shedding light on their impact on British fashion history and their enduring legacy. By amplifying these voices and narratives, the exhibition served as a powerful catalyst for dialogue, reflection, and action, driving forward a more inclusive and equitable future for the fashion industry.
The clothing choices and styling preferences of Black individuals should be regarded with respect. There’s a pressing need for less appropriation and more appreciation to recognise the cultural influence of Black people, not only within UK fashion but also on a global scale.
Black British Fashion Due 15th Of Feb:
Highlight the influence of Black British fashion and style on global trends.
Explore the joy and empowerment found in expressing cultural identity through fashion.
Black British Fashion
The phrase ‘Often Imitated, Never Duplicated’ captures the essence of Black British fashion and its global influence. While many may attempt to replicate the style, the originality and authenticity of Black fashion trends remain unparalleled. The unique blend of cultural heritage, innovation, and self-expression within Black UK fashion sets it apart, making it a trendsetter that resonates on an international scale.
From pioneering designers like Walé Adeyemi, to trailblazing models like Naomi Campbell, Black British individuals have played an integral role in shaping the fashion landscape.
The Influence of the Windrush Generation
[1948: Jamaicans on board the Empire Windrush, copyright Illustrated London News Ltd. Mary Evans]
The Windrush generation, on arriving in the UK, brought with them a rich tapestry of new skills, styles and fashions. Seamlessly integrating their cultural heritage into the fabric of British society, enriching the fashion landscape with vibrant and diverse influences. For instance, The Zoot suit was often worn by Caribbean men and consisted of high waisted, wide-legged trousers, worn with a long jacket.
Many aboard the HMT Empire Windrush brought with them the rich tradition of clothes-making, from shoemakers to tailors, each individual brought expertise to their new home. Despite facing racism, they sought to establish a new sense of identity in the UK. Their fashion choices reflected a blend of international influences, showcasing pride and determination.
Alethea McNish, born in Trinidad and moved to the UK in the 50’s was known for her colourful designs which stood out in the post-war period. She often worked with large fashion houses such as Christian Dior.
Today’s Trailblazers
Nigerian-British designers such as Fisayo Longe and Clint Ogbenna, have made significant strides in the fashion industry, establishing successful businesses that have dressed celebrities such as Saweetie and Drake. Their entrepreneurial endeavours not only showcase their talent and creativity but also contribute to shaping contemporary fashion trends and influencing popular culture.
[@ fisayolonge on Instagram] [@ clint419 founder of Corteiz https://www.instagram.com/clint419/?hl=en ]
Their creative expressions blend elements of African and Caribbean heritage with contemporary British aesthetics, offering a fresh perspective that resonates across diverse communities. Through their bold designs, vibrant colours, and innovative approaches, they challenge norms, celebrate diversity, and redefine standards of beauty.
Black British Women’s Influence
Black British women are increasingly influential in shaping global fashion trends, with their impact amplified by social media platforms. Captivating “get ready with me” videos are used to authentically express themselves, showcasing unique styles and perspectives that resonate with diverse audiences worldwide in real-time, underscoring the relevance and power of their influence in today’s fashion landscape.
Women are celebrated for their exceptional fashion sense and the significant impact it exerts on the global stage. This is evident in hashtags such as #UKBlackGirlAesthetic, boasting over 1000 posts dedicated to showcasing the distinctive styles of Black women in the UK, highlighting their unique fashion expressions that set them apart from counterparts in other regions across the globe.
[@ drealdior on tiktok] + [ @ __kubiat__ on Instagram]
Influencers such as celebrity fashion stylist, Melissa Holdbrook-Akposoe of Melissa’s Wardrobe and Nella Rose, are driving trends in the UK through popular “try on hauls,” where they showcase their favourite clothing items and highlight standout shops. These videos often go viral, significantly influencing the fashion landscape and the trends embraced by individuals across the country.
Their influence has garnered immense popularity, leading them to partner with global brands and even launch their own fashion lines. These lines not only reflect their personal style but also serve as a platform to influence trends centred around joy and empowerment. Through their fashion endeavours, they continue to inspire and uplift others, spreading body positivity and confidence throughout the industry.
[Melissa’s Wardrobe on Instagram] + [Pretty Little Thing x Nella Rose Collaboration]
Black British Men’s Influence
A standout figure in contemporary British fashion is Skepta, also known as Joseph Adenuga, renowned as a fashion icon and a regular presence at London Fashion Week. His distinct style has earned him recognition as one of Britain’s best-dressed men.
This year, Skepta expanded his influence with the launch of Mains London, a ready-to-wear line debuting at London Fashion Week. Blending streetwear with sophistication, his collection captivated audiences and critics alike, challenging norms and reflecting the diversity of British culture.
Skepta’s venture into fashion marks a significant milestone, reshaping the landscape of British fashion with his innovative designs and creative vision. As a trailblazer in both music and fashion, Skepta embodies the spirit of self-expression at the core of Black British identity.
[@ skepta on Instagram]
From Windrush to Streetwear
The association between Black men and puffer jackets, as well as designer tracksuits influenced by Grime music, creates a symbiotic relationship where fashion trends inspire and are inspired by cultural movements. Celebrities, alongside the youth who admire them, play a pivotal role in shaping these trends, with their style choices setting the tone for broader fashion landscapes. Music videos serve as influential platforms, promoting particular images that subsequently permeate social settings and communities, reinforcing and amplifying these fashion statements.
The incorporation of sportswear into contemporary youth culture in the UK by Grime artists is increasingly prevalent and robust. From Skepta’s highly anticipated collections with Nike, to Stormzy’s Adidas collaboration, their influence is undeniable and continues to grow stronger with each passing day.
[@ santandavebible Santan Dave’s women’s fashion line] + [@ vintagedollrisa on Instagram]
Discrimination in Fashion
The discussion surrounding professionalism and appropriateness in fashion, particularly in the UK, is complex and often contentious. There are negative associations attached to certain styles, such as streetwear commonly worn by many Black men in London, which can be unfairly linked to antisocial behaviour or the stereotype of ‘roadmen.’
On the other hand, hairstyles like cornrows and other protective styles, prevalent among individuals of African and Caribbean descent, are consistent within the community but not outside of it, often deemed unprofessional.
However, when these styles are adopted by white individuals or fashion designers, they are often perceived as edgy streetwear or high-fashion statements, receiving praise and attention during fashion weeks. This disparity highlights broader issues of cultural appropriation and the double standards that persist within the fashion industry. Another example being Balaclavas- seen negatively on Black individuals but perfect for high fashion brands like Gucci’s runways.
[https://twitter.com/NoContextBrits/status/1590654425672331266] [https://images.app.goo.gl/ioG7oULFqa35HWPJ6]
Celebrities like David Beckham have sparked conversations by incorporating traditionally Black accessories into their fashion choices. For instance, Beckham notably wore a durag during a meeting with the now King of England, and he also styled his hair in cornrows when meeting Nelson Mandela. Growing up in London, Beckham’s fashion influences are deeply rooted in the diverse cultural landscape of the city. However, Beckham has expressed ‘regret’ over his past fashion choices, particularly the cornrows, acknowledging that they may have been perceived as ‘unprofessional’, especially in formal settings. Such rhetoric is “anti-Black” and dangerous to Black people and Black culture as individuals may be victims of discrimination because of their hairstyles in “professional” settings. Beckham’s fashion choices highlight the ongoing dialogue about cultural appropriation and the importance of understanding the cultural significance of certain fashion choices.
Recognising Trailblazers
In September 2023, as London Fashion Week drew to a close, Somerset House unveiled a groundbreaking exhibition titled “The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion.” This exhibition aimed to celebrate the last 50 years of British fashion while shining a spotlight on the often-overlooked successes and influence of Black designers and the evolution of Black British fashion.
Curated by the Black Orientated Legacy Development Agency (BOLD), a dynamic creative and design development agency, the exhibition sought to catalyse structural and institutional change within the fashion industry and beyond. BOLD, conceived by visionaries Andrew Ibi, Harris Elliot, and Jason Jules, is dedicated to championing diversity, equity, and inclusion within the creative sphere.
[https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/the-missing-thread]
Through compelling storytelling and visually arresting displays, “The Missing Thread” offered a platform to showcase the remarkable contributions of Black designers and creatives, shedding light on their impact on British fashion history and their enduring legacy. By amplifying these voices and narratives, the exhibition served as a powerful catalyst for dialogue, reflection, and action, driving forward a more inclusive and equitable future for the fashion industry.
The clothing choices and styling preferences of Black individuals should be regarded with respect. There’s a pressing need for less appropriation and more appreciation to recognise the cultural influence of Black people, not only within UK fashion but also on a global scale.
BLAM UK CIC 